Elsa Schiaparelli, the great eccentric

Elsa Schiaparelli, the great eccentric
02/16/2017 Alicia L.

Everyone knows Coco Chanel, but a very few know her great rival Elsa Schiaparelli, a fabulous fashion designer from Italy.

Elsa Schiaparelli was an atypical designer who had a great influence on all her contemporaries, but whose name has not remained like a fashion brand until our days. A rare breed whose life and work deserve to be remembered. 

Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli by Man Ray.1934

She was born in Rome in 1890 into a wealthy family closely linked to culture and science. She married with the count and intellectual William de Wendt de Kerlor. They moved to New York where Elsa became a gap between modernity and the art world of the city. Her interest in spiritualism translated into a natural affinity for the art of the Dada and Surrealist movements and her friendship with Gaby Picabia facilitated entry into this creative circle which comprised noteworthy members such as Man RayMarcel DuchampAlfred Stieglitz, Salvador Dalí and Edward Steichen

Schiaparelli left New York for France in 1922 after her divorce with William. The self-made associations she formed over the years along with the eminent social position held by her Italian family combined to ensure that she would be embraced by desirable social circles on her return to France.

Elsa Schiaparelli 2

Encouraged by her artist friends, Elsa opened a boutique in Paris in the early 1920s that would remain open until 1954.

While Chanel opted for austerity, Schiaparelli was striving to create garments that were more striking, full of details, and innovate with cuts.   

elsa-photograph-black

Her creations were among the earliest in including fuchsia or turquoise color, as well as materials never before used in clothing such as plastic. 

Her original creations seduced the surrealists, who worked side by side with her to make pieces as unforgettable as they were impossible. Oriental-inspired party costumes, strong colors, flowing fabrics.

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She was the first to create wide lines of bathing and sport for the woman, including a kind of skirt pants to be able to play tennis with comfort. Her style, sometimes offensive to the demure ladies of the time, was much to the liking of loyal customers like Wallis Simpson, Daisy Fellowes or Marlene Dietrich. In short, women who broke with and did not conform to the conventional.

alvarez_rolandgarros

After World War II, European fashion was dominated by austerity. Schiaparelli’s coloring and hedonism were not well accepted in a new society that still mourned the horrors of war. She closed her boutique in 1954 and retired from fashion. She gave witness to Coco Chanel, who just that year reopened her store in Paris. The rest is history. Elsa died in Paris in 1973 and away from fashion

Her artwork has greatly influenced later designers. A little quiz, this is the perfume she designed, does it remind you of something?

 

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Comments (7)

  1. Tina 5 months ago

    Had never heard of her, but there are some lovely designs in the pictures.

  2. petitplat 5 months ago

    Quite eccentric designs indeed!

  3. НАТАЛЬЯ 5 months ago

    It was very interesting to learn about this great woman

  4. Star of the East 5 months ago

    I didn’t know her! Very modern for her time! The perfume looks like jean Paul Gaultier’s bottles.
    The bra with hands is also something a designer has been using lately (do not know who though).

  5. millie 5 months ago

    i love her work! amazing!

  6. Anna 5 months ago

    So nice to read the story of an exceptional woman!

  7. Iulia Postica 5 months ago

    I heard this name but did not know much about her life and work! Thank you!

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